How To Build A Bay Window Support
Synopsis: The addition of a bay window can brand a room or house seem like an entirely new place. In this first of a two-part commodity, veteran builder Rick Arnold outlines his process for installing a bay window in an existing firm. For Arnold, the fundamental to a polish process is edifice the roof first. The roof is and then installed in one piece on top of the bay window. The process for edifice the roof proceeds through several steps. Commencement, make a template for the roof base. Then, create a rafter nailer from the template. After the rafter nailer is washed, lay out and fasten the mutual rafter, then lay out and fasten the hip rafters. After the hip rafters are in place, the jack rafters go in. The final structure step earlier the roof is installed is the laying out and cutting of the sheathing. This article includes sidebars on choosing a bay window and using a structure estimator to figure dimensions. The article too includes a multifariousness of technical drawings that illustrate how to determine the cuts for the template and the sheathing.
Part two of this article is bachelor here.
Magazine extra: Lookout man this video serial for Rick Arnold's method of building a bay-window roof.
I recently helped my mom and stepdad move into a small ranch house and then that they'd exist free of stairs and accept an easier fourth dimension getting around. The pocket-size house was in decent shape and livable, but the north-facing bedroom's lack of calorie-free made the infinite grim. With my stepdad'southward increasing mobility issues, information technology seemed likely that he'd be spending more and more time in at that place, then I decided to make the room more inviting past swapping the existing window for a projecting bay window.
Installing a bay window is one of the easiest ways to transform a room. Past reaching beyond a domicile'south wall, a bay window gathers calorie-free from three directions, creating an inviting, sun-collecting space that is perfect for displaying plants, cozying upwardly with a good book, and brightening dark interior spaces.
Non surprisingly, installing a bay window is more involved than putting in a conventional window. This offset part of a two-part article deals with choosing a window and framing a good-looking roof to encompass it—ahead of time. It may seem odd to frame the roof kickoff, simply information technology makes the whole projection easier. The 2d office covers installing the window, making it weathertight, and trimming the exterior.
Bay-Window Nuts
The most common bay windows have outside corners that meet at a 45° angle, but other styles are available. Fortunately, the installation methods for all types and sizes are similar. Bay windows are mostly sold with caput and seat boards that hold the window together and grade its top and lesser. Y'all too can get them without head and seat boards for installation in angled or curved walls. The 45° window that is featured here with head and seat boards is the virtually mutual type of window installed. I chose the narrowest window model that was available from this manufacturer so that the window wouldn't overwhelm the pocket-size bedchamber.
Why Build The Roof First?
Through the years, I've learned that when a projecting window needs a roof, it's meliorate to build the roof first. For starters, information technology'due south easier and safer to build the roof on the ground. In addition, having the roof framed nevertheless removable makes information technology easier to cut back brick or siding for flashing and to integrate the window into the house. It also means that the house is vulnerable to bad weather for less fourth dimension.
If you've e'er seen a bay window that just doesn't await right, information technology might be because its roof has the wrong shape. The proper shape for a 45° window like the one featured here is based on a department of an octagonal roof with 22.5° hip rafters.
At this bending, the hip rafters bifurcate the window's front corners, giving the roof a pleasing shape. The pitch of the roof is also an of import cistron. When I'm installing the roof in a gable cease, I similar to use a steep pitch then that the roof has enough mass to balance the surrounding wall. For this window's overhang, I added 4-1⁄2 in. to the roof framing for a finished soffit fabricated from a 1×five board. A 5 -in. soffit works with almost bay windows, but larger windows (eight ft. wide or more) may need wider soffits to match the overhang on the house's main roof better.
When deciding on a pitch and overhang for your window, be sure to consider architectural features such every bit other windows and business firm-roof overhangs that could interfere with the window's roof. Once you have a proposed design, make a sketch to see how it will look on the building. This roof's 12-in-12 pitch also complements the window'due south squarish shape.
Make A Template
I've seen these little roofs claiming even veteran framers, only my design method makes them easy to build. The first thing that I exercise is re-create the shape of the window (in plan view) onto a piece of 3⁄iv-in. OSB. I use this OSB template to lay out and cut the 2x4s that class the roof's ceiling joists and subfascia. I call this associates the base. Once I have the base, I rework the template into a nailer for attaching the rafters.
To brand the template, I snap a line on the window's plywood headboard indicating the iv in. that extends into the rough opening. Then I transfer the window'due south shape to the template. Using a flake of stock, I add together the overhang's width to the template and cut out the trapezoid-shaped OSB with a round saw. Then I cut and assemble the ceiling joists and subfascia on top of the template.
I fasten the components with 2-one⁄2-in. screws. I employ screws because they allow me to hold the components with one mitt while I fasten with the other manus. The screws hold better, as well. This detail is important because the roof may exist lifted onto the window and removed several times before it'south put in place for the last time.
Make A Nailer For The Rafters
After the base is done, I rework the template into a nailer for the rafters. The rafters attach forth the nailer's top border; the whole assembly then is attached to the house. If you're using the manufacturer'southward cable-suspension system to help carry the weight of the projecting window, the attachment bracket can exist mounted on this OSB nailer, making the entire window installation easier.
Y'all might assume the sides of the nailer are 45° like the sides of the base, but they're not. They're slightly less. In unproblematic terms, it's because the roof is based on a segment of an octagon, not a box.
The right shape for the nailer is critical, and the math is somewhat complicated. I make information technology easy by using a play a joke on I learned years ago (encounter "Fashion a rafter nailer from the template," p. forty).
Cut And Fit The Rafters
Before I take rafter measurements, I make sure that the rafter nailer is perpendicular to the base of operations. If it isn't, I push or pull information technology until it is; and then I brace it in the proper position. The commencement rafter I cut is the common rafter. I measure from the exterior edge of the nailer to the outside edge of the subfascia. Considering the roof will accept a 12-in-12 pitch, the common rafter volition take a 45° cutting on each finish. Subsequently I screw the common rafter in place, I measure for the 2 adjacent hip rafters. They're longer than the mutual rafter, and so they'll have slightly different angles. With a 12-in-12 roof, the hips will be 43° on the top and 47° on the bottom.
Getting the hips to fit correctly is of import. I suggest beingness cautious when you cut; you tin ever trim them if they're too long. If the hips are too curt, the sheathing won't fit correctly, so it's better to make a 2nd cut than cut them too short the starting time time.
The hips bifurcate the 45° sides of the window, so the tops get a 22.5° bevel. Later I cheque the fit, I use this get-go rafter as a template for the next rafter. I line it upwardly and mark the bottom, then marking the bevel end. I keep it oriented the same way when I cut the rafter. Now I take a correct and a left bevel.
The final pair of rafters become from the center of the angled subfascia to the center of the angled side on the rafter nailer. These are the jack rafters. They will have 45° angles on both ends and a 45° bevel at the tiptop. Considering the other side will be the same length, I use the first i as a template to mark the 2d.
Cut The Sheathing
With the rafters done, I cut the sheathing for the roof. I don't install it, nonetheless, because that would interfere with installing the stainless-steel cables that assistance to back up the window. The 2nd one-half of this two-part article volition show how to install the cables.
To measure out for the center piece, I starting time measure the fascia length. And then I measure the height. Finally, I measure the width at the tiptop. To cutting the centre panel, I transfer the fascia measurement to the panel edge and mark its center. I use a framing square to ensure that the peak measurement is perpendicular to the edge of the sheathing. And then I transfer the top measurement to the capsule, centering it on the perpendicular line and using a square to class a right angle at the top.
To cut the side pieces of sheathing, I measure along the subfascia; and so I measure out the hip rafter and the length along the superlative of the nailer. I extend the tape to the imaginary signal where the sheathing meets the building.
To lay out the triangular-shaped pieces of roof sheathing, I transfer the subfascia measurement to the edge of the panel. At opposite ends of the fascia measurement, I transfer the hip rafter and nailer measurements up. At the end of both measurements, I make a small arc by holding a pencil at the cease of the record. Where the two arcs intersect is the point at the top.
In part 2 of this article, I'll show you how to install the bay window, put on the roof, and integrate the whole window assembly into the wall.
Make A Template For The Roof Base
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| Measure out the width and project. Brainstorm making a template for laying out the ceiling joist and subfascia by copying the shape of the window onto a sheet of three⁄4-in. OSB. 1 When making the template, don't include the 4 in. of plywood that extends into the rough opening. | Add the overhang. Draw the window shape onto the OSB template, and add the 4-1⁄2-in. roof overhang to the front and sides of the template. |
Fashion A Rafter Nailer From The Template
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| 1. After cutting out and using the template to lay out and gather the roof base, y'all can convert the template into a nailer for attaching the rafters. | ii. Hook a tape on the template corner to measure the angled side. Swing an arc the length of the angled side on the template. |
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| iii. Apply a square to transfer the mark across | iv. Connect the outside corner to the new marker with a straightedge. |
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| five. Echo the process on the other side of | Without trimming, the nailer would project across the subfascia, preventing the sheathing and finished fascia from sitting flat. After trimming, the nailer should fit on the base so that the forepart side is affluent with the subfascia (photo above). |
Lay Out And Fasten The Mutual Rafter
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| Measure the common rafter. After using a framing square to ensure that the rafter nailer is perpendicular to the base (brace | Fasten with screws. Drive 2 1⁄two-in. drywall screws through the rafter end and into the roof base. At the tiptop of the rafter, drive screws from the back side of the nailer into the rafter. Screws hold better than nails; this is important, because the roof will probable be moved several times earlier final installation on the window. |
Lay Out And Fasten The Hip Rafters
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| Mensurate the hips. The hip rafters run from the acme corners of the rafter nailer to the outside corners of the subfascia. Tape the measurement, and then subtract 3⁄8 in. to lower the rafter corners then that they are in airplane with the subfascia. | Mark the cuts. Hip rafters on 45° bay-window roofs with a 12-in-12 pitch will have 43° cuts at the pinnacle and 47° cuts on the lesser. For pitches other than 12-in-12, use a construction calculator (sidebar left) to figure the angles. |
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| Chemical compound cut on the top; miter cut on the bottom. The bottoms of the hip rafters get a 47° miter without a bevel, but the tops demand a 22.5° bevel in addition to a 43° miter. Tilt the saw to 22.v°, and follow the line made earlier. | Check the fit. Ostend that the first hip rafter fits correctly, then use it as a template to cutting the other side. Bundled correctly, the bevels should grade a point when the rafters are stacked. If non, the 2d bevel is sloping the wrong way. |
The perfect fit. The rafters shouldn't protrude beyond the pinnacle of the rafter nailer or the subfascia. If the rafters are proud, the capsule, which will be installed later, won't fit tight to the framing. If the rafters stick upwardly slightly, trim their length from either end, using the same saw settings equally the original cut.
Using A Construction Figurer
Offset, measure the height of the rafter nailer. Enter the number and press ascent. Next, measure the rafter length, enter that number, and press diagonal. Finally, printing the pitch push button. The result is the top angle. Round that number to the nearest caste, and decrease it from ninety to get the bottom angle.
Lay Out And Fasten The Jack Rafters
Cut and fit the jacks. Holding the record perpendicular to the subfascia, measure out to the front end of the nailer and the pinnacle of the subfascia. The lesser cutting has a 45° miter only. The elevation cutting has a 45° miter and a 45° bevel. Subsequently checking the fit, use the rafter as a template for the other side past stacking the pair of rafters with ane on top of the other every bit described on the facing page.
Lay Out And Cutting The Sheathing
Middle Capsule
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| i. Transfer the fascia measurement to the panel edge, and so find and mark the center of this measurement. two. Utilise a square to draw a perpendicular line from this mark. | 3. Measure the height, and transfer this measurement to the perpendicular line in the eye. iv. Measure out the width at the height. Bisect this measurement on the vertical perpendicular line. |
 | v. Connect the ends of the lines. Cut out the shape with a circular saw, but don't attach the sheathing. |
Side Capsule
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| 1. Measure the fascia edge, and transfer the measurement to the edge of the sheathing panel. 2. Measure the side on the rafter nailer, and transfer this measurement to the sheathing past forming an arc at the end of the tape. | 3. Do the same for the hip rafter. |
 | iv. The intersection of the two arcs is the signal at the superlative. |
Up Next: A Weatherproof Installation
In the second half of this two-part commodity, we'll tackle preparing the bay-window opening, installing the window unit with its cable-support arrangement, and integrating the new window and its roof with the surrounding wall.
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| Installing The Window | Shimming And Fastening |
 | Fastening Cable Supports |
For more photos and details, click the View PDF push button beneath:
Source: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/windows-doors/how-to-install-a-bay-window-part-1
Posted by: kruegerbittly.blogspot.com
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